Used Car Inspection Checklist: What to Check Before You Buy

Before you go

• Get the VIN from the seller and run it through the free tools in our vehicle history guide.
• Check for open recalls by VIN on NHTSA's recall lookup. Ask whether any open recall has been fixed.
• Ask the basics: How long have you owned it? Why are you selling? Any accidents? Do you have service records? Is the title in your name?
• See it in daylight, on a dry day, with the engine cold. Rain hides paint flaws, and a warm engine can hide starting problems.

Outside and tires

• Paint: walk around slowly. Panels that are a slightly different shade or texture usually mean bodywork.
• Panel gaps: the gaps around the hood, doors and trunk should be even on both sides. Uneven gaps can point to a past collision.
• Body: look down each side for ripples and dents, and check bumpers for cracks and loose clips.
• Rust: check the wheel wells, rocker panels and underneath. Cars that spent winters on salted roads deserve a careful look.
• Glass: chips or cracks in the windshield.
• Lights: have a friend confirm headlights, brake lights, turn signals and reverse lights all work.
• Tread: it should wear evenly across each tire. Wear on one edge often points to alignment or suspension problems.
• Tire age: tires weaken with age even when they look fine. Find the Tire Identification Number (TIN) on the sidewall — the last four digits are the week and year it was made, so "1010" means March 2010.
• Spare and jack: make sure they're there, and check the spare's age too.

Under the hood

Do this with the engine cold. You don't need to be a mechanic — you're looking for obvious warning signs.

• Oil: pull the dipstick. Check the level, and look for a milky, light-brown residue on the dipstick or under the oil filler cap — it can signal a serious engine problem.
• Coolant at the proper level in the overflow tank.
• Belts and hoses: no cracks, fraying or bulges.
• Leaks: look for wet spots or fresh drips on the engine and on the ground under it.
• Battery: heavy corrosion on the terminals.
• A suspiciously spotless engine on an older car. A fresh pressure wash can hide leaks.

Inside the car

• Smell: mustiness — or a heavy dose of air freshener — can be covering water damage or smoke.
• Flood signs: lift the floor mats. Damp carpet, dried silt or rust on the seat rails and under the dash are serious warning signs.
• Warning lights: turn the key to "on." The dashboard lights should come on briefly, then go out once the engine starts. A check-engine light that stays on is a problem; one that never lights up at all may have been disabled.
• Wear vs. mileage: a worn-smooth steering wheel, pedals and driver's seat don't fit a car with very low miles.
• Test everything: air conditioning and heat, windows, locks, mirrors, seat adjusters, power sliding doors and liftgate, the screen, speakers and backup camera.
• Seat belts: every one should latch and retract smoothly.

The test drive

Take at least 15–20 minutes, and drive the kinds of roads you actually use — local streets, bumps, and a stretch at highway speed.

• Cold start: it should start easily, without smoke, knocking or a long crank.
• Brakes: the car stops straight, with no pulsing, grinding or soft pedal.
• Steering: it tracks straight on a level road, with no pull to one side and no clunks over bumps.
• Transmission: shifts are smooth, with no slipping, flare or delay when you select drive or reverse.
• Highway speed: no vibration through the wheel or seat.
• After the drive: park, let it idle, and look underneath again for anything new dripping.

Paperwork

• The VIN matches everywhere: on the dashboard (visible through the windshield), the driver's door jamb and the title.
• The name on the title matches the seller's ID in a private sale.
• No title brand such as salvage, rebuilt or flood — or, if there is one, you understand exactly what it means for value and insurance.
• Service records that line up with the mileage.
• At a dealer: ask whether the car qualifies for New Jersey's used car warranty, and read any waiver before you sign.

Get a pre-purchase inspection

Your own check catches the obvious problems. An independent mechanic catches the rest: they can put the car on a lift, scan the computer for stored trouble codes and spot repairs you'd never see. It usually costs far less than one surprise repair.

Choose the mechanic yourself — not one the seller recommends — and treat a seller who won't allow an inspection as your answer.

Red flags: walk away

• The seller won't let a mechanic look at the car.
• The title isn't in the seller's name, or the VINs don't match.
• Signs of flood damage.
• Pressure to decide today, or cash-only demands for a big purchase.
• A price far below what similar cars sell for — there's usually a reason.

Sources

• NHTSA — Check for recalls
• NHTSA — Tire age and the Tire Identification Number (from its van safety guidance)